What is Taffeta?

Taffeta is a lightweight fabric valued for its versatility and practicality across a range of applications, including liners, sleeping bags, down jackets, and medical uses such as surgical drapes, isolation gowns, and sterile equipment covers. Originally made from silk, taffeta is now predominantly produced using synthetic materials like nylon and polyester. Taffeta’s smooth and slightly stiff texture helps garments and items retain their shape, making it an excellent choice for structured designs. The word taffeta originates from the Persian word tāfta, which means twisted woven. This term reflects the fabric’s construction method, which involves twisting yarns together. Known for its signature sheen, taffeta can also appear slightly dull, depending on the yarn type and construction. Manufacturers favor taffeta for its aesthetic appeal, crisp feel, and ability to maintain its original appearance even with regular use.

Top Applications for Taffeta

• Down jackets and sleeping bags
• Surgical drapes, isolation gowns, and sterile equipment covers
• Bag linings, quilting, and protective storage covers.
• Event décor for tablecloths, chair covers, and drapes,
• Tent linings, rainwear, and gear covers
• Eveningwear, costumes, and bridal gowns

Key Characteristics of Taffeta

• Sheen: A glossy or slightly matte surface, depending on the fiber.
• Texture: Crisp, smooth
• Drape: Excellent for structured silhouettes or flowing designs.
• Strength: Durable and resistant to wear, especially when made from synthetic fibers.

Understanding Taffeta Pick Counts

The pick count refers to the number of warp and weft threads per inch in the fabric, and it significantly influences the fabric’s quality, durability, and feel. The differences between higher and lower pick counts directly impact the fabric’s performance. Higher pick counts mean smoother surfaces and better water resistance. They are typically more expensive but provide superior performance. Lower pick counts are more breathable and flexible, along with a lower price point.

Types of Finishes for Taffeta

Finishes can improve taffeta fabric’s durability, water resistance, sheen, or texture, depending on the specific application. Some popular finishes on taffeta are: calendering, urethane coating, and ciré. These finishes can transform standard taffeta into a high-performing fabric perfect for outdoor gear, fashion, or decorative purposes. Understanding these finishes allows us to choose the right finish to match the end use and price point.

Calendared Finish
The calendered finish is a mechanical process where taffeta fabric is passed through heated rollers under high pressure. This technique creates a smooth, glossy surface and enhances the fabric’s aesthetic appeal. For taffeta, calendering produces a sleek, polished appearance that is both visually appealing and functional. The process adds a subtle sheen to the fabric, improves its texture by flattening the surface, and slightly reduces porosity, providing some water resistance. Common end uses for calendered taffeta are jackets, bags, non-critical medical applications, tablecloths, and event drapery.

Urethane Coated Finish
The urethane-coated finish involves applying a thin layer of polyurethane (PU) to the taffeta fabric’s surface, creating a protective barrier that enhances water resistance and durability. This finish also makes the fabric waterproof and increases tear resistance and prevents fraying. Common end uses for taffeta with a urethane coated finish are tents, tarps, rainwear, protective covers, and outdoor gear.

Ciré Finish
The ciré finish is created by applying wax or a similar substance to the taffeta fabric and then heat treating it, resulting in a glossy, almost wet look. This high-gloss surface gives the fabric a luxurious appearance, often resembling patent leather. The ciré finish enhances water-repellent properties while retaining the crisp texture typical of taffeta. Common end uses for taffeta with a ciré finish include outerwear, eveningwear, curtains, cushions, and lightweight rainwear.

Common Testing Methods for Taffeta

In addition to tensile and tear testing, taffeta testing often includes air permeability testing, down proof testing, and seam slippage testing.

Air permeability testing uses the ASTM D737 method, which measures the air flow through a fabric under a prescribed air pressure differential. Results are reported in cubic feet per minute (CFM).

Down proof testing is crucial for fabrics used in down jackets and sleeping bags. It typically involves filling a sample with down and feathers, tumbling the sample in a rotating box. Then examining for signs of leakage after specified intervals

Seam slippage testing uses the ASTM D434 method, which evaluates fabric’s resistance to yarn separation along a seam line under pressure. This test is critical for ensuring garment durability, especially for lightweight fabrics like taffeta.